Home to Massachusetts

After a little over 6 hours of driving we arrived home to Massachusetts. The weather is sunny and clear but of course snow is on its way. Come Friday they are predicting as much as 6 inches. But Massachusetts has very good apples. On the way home we stopped at our favorite apple place Bolton Orchards and picked up 4 gallons of their delicious fresh cider. Here's Bruce sipping on cider straight from the tap.

Delaware with Dorothy

Our last stop was Delaware where we stayed with our friend Dot who used to be our next door neighbor. We stayed up late catching up. We enjoyed a very nice dinner with her and Bob.

Cherry Blossoms

It is a beautiful sunny day in Washington DC and we are off to see the cherry blossoms.
Later on we are going to see our dear friend Dorothy in Wilmington, Delaware. We'll travel on the scenic route.

Looking at Our Stuff

There are certain cities which should never be passed by: New York, Chicago and Washington DC. There are always free musums and Sunday means free parking plus right now it is the beginning the cherry blossom festival. We found a pretty convenient parking spot and walked in to the National Gallery, the Smithsonian and the National Portrait Gallery. Wow! It is just so much fun seeing all the treasures which belong to us, the American people. Thanks George for everything.

Virginia and up into the Snow!

The extremes of the weather in America! Back in Orlando it is 90! Yesterday it was warm and lovely in the Carolinas. Today it is cold and rainy in Virginia and we are on our way to snow in Washington DC.

Carolinas

Been wandering north through lovely southern towns.
Wonderful and warm, both weather and the folks.

Relaxing in South Carolina

We've been lounging about for the past 2 days in South Carolina with Bruce's pal Gordon and his sister Joyce. Here are Bruce and Joyce ready to go on a bike ride.

Traveling Light

I pride myself on traveling light, but it is so hard keeping track of everything when you are traveling so far and so fast. Often we change hotels after only one night. Then we are getting out of the car all the time to tour and/or photograph. We were doing a great job of remembering to pack everything, including books and hot water kettle. Unfortunately, somewhere after Monday I lost my beloved Manfrotto monopod. I looked everywhere, but no luck. It was probably left at one of the places where we both photographed. I have a few places to check but I am not optimistic. No matter. I will replace my monopod and I think I will just travel lighter and perhaps leave monopod home on our next trip.
RIP Manfrotto Monopod (2005 - 2011)

Back to Jekyll Island

Back at Jekyll Island we had a chance to see the Wood Storks congregating at the golf course.

Jekyll Island is a great place for enjoying the beach, the pool, and the birds. There is very little traffic and virtually no noise. I could spend a lot of time here.

Sunset on Bradenton Beach

Florida evenings are balmy and warm so we went again to see the sunset on the beach. At the community beach they have live music and a restaurant. Here we all are.

Bradenton

We have been having a delightful relaxing in Bradenton with Marilyn and Dan. Walks on the beach to view the magnificent orange sunsets and full moons. Lots of yummy food too both at home and at the Starfish Market in nearby Cortez.

Grouper, Scallops, Coconut Hushpuppies, Grits, Coleslaw, and Fries.

Forget the Chains, Find the Taquerías

When it is time to eat, I avoid chains and search out good regional food. Yes, the USA still has excellent regional food and some of the best is in Florida. My trick here is to find the citrus fields - lemons, grapefruit, oranges, mandarines, tangerines, tangelos. Workers from Central America and Mexico are employed here so you will always see small taquerías along the highway. These family run establishments serve authentic Mexican food. There may be things as good, but there is nothing better than a real fresh taco with a Corona. In Florida City we had great food at Rosita's Mexican Restaurant and more of the same at Taquería San Julian in LaBelle.
Rositas Mexican Restaurant is located at 199 W Palm Dr in Florida City, FL 33034 Tel (305) 246-3114 and Taqueria San Julian is at 1100 State Road 29 S Labelle, FL 33935 (863) 612-9235. Both restaurants have gotten rave reviews on the net.

Happy Saint Patrick's Day

I missed all the parades and parties. I can't believe I forgot to bring anything green with me and here it is, the 17th, Saint Patrick's Day!
We went to visit Bruce's cousin Rita in Naples. Rita is an artist and she and her husband live in a beautiful house filled with her paintings.

Back to the Everglades at Dusk

Paurotis Pond in Everglades at dusk is when the waders roost: egrets, herons and the stars of the show, the Wood Storks and Roseate Spoonbills. The birds fly over your head on their way to the opposite side of the pond.

Goodbye Key West

We left Key West in the afternoon via the beaches and the fishing piers where we saw lots of navy ships, cruise boats, pelicans before passing by the US Route 1 sign with the zero marker. Fortunately for a second time we succeeded in spotting that very rare species, a genuine conch. Captain Jimmy Bailey, born and bred in Key West, has been fishing the Florida Keys for over 37 years and is an expert. He charges a whopping $600 but his customer told us that Captain Jimmy knows where the fish are. We photographed him at Hooked Up Charter Fishing station while he was cutting up his customer's catch. Yea, his price includes all the messy work plus he provides bait. He'll take 6 people. I want to go fishing next time I come to Florida! Bruce and I make 2 people. Any candidates for the 4 more I need? I will bring the grill and the fish rub.
See Capt Bailey's YouTube video and see his website http://www.hookedupkeywest.com/ .

Key West Is Hot!

Yesterday Key West was too hot! I actually sat out the hottest part of the day in the hotel room. The sun blares. Evenings of course are magnificent. March is Key West's highest season so the streets and the beaches are packed. It is fun to see the nightlife easily visible as you walk by all the bars on Duval Street which have open windows. Happy patrons are dancing and whooping it up. We spent the day looking at historical houses in the quiet neighborhoods and talking to the residents. We befriended a young man who manages an art gallery. He lent us his very well-behaved parrot for a photo.
It was very interesting talking to so many different types of people in Key West. We spent a lot of time seeking out a very rare species, the conch i.e. someone who was born and bred in Key West. At last success! A very nice handsome man we met at a sandwich shop. His favorite meals are Fried Ribs and Fish with Grits. And yes, he shared his recipes plus his restaurant recommendations.

Key West Is Warm

"Let's walk on the shady side of the street." advised Bruce as we walked down Simonton Street from the Spindrift Motel. It is nearly 80° in Key West, almost too warm.
Key West is also very expensive. Northerners escaping the cold, college kids on spring break, plus half of Europe attracted by good prices for them come together here so the prices are bid up.

Everglades

Herons, egrets, alligators and lots of fellow tourists, especially from Germany, awaited us at the Everglades. On Saturday, the Everglades (along with all Florida's attractions) is very busy, but at dusk we were pretty much alone with the birds and the sunset.
Before entering the Everglades we stopped at Robert Is Here fruitstand, There was a long line for a Key Lime Milkshake.

Robert's milk shake is best enjoyed while you are picking out Key limes, mangos, avocados and other goodies at Robert's. If you can't go to southern Florida, visit Robert on-line. About 2o years ago when the net was young I posted a web site about Key Limes. I corresponded with Robert and he gave me his recipe for his luscious milk shake.

Robert's Key Lime Milkshake
2 ounces key lime juice
1/4 - 1/3 cup sugar
16 ounces soft vanilla ice cream

Blend the sugar and key lime juice very well, then add the ice cream. Blend well and pour into a tall glass and ENJOY!
Recipe compliments of Robert Is Here 1999

Miami Beach

Just left Miami. What a party city. No city beats this place for fun. The sign says no dogs, no guns and no alcohol. I did not see any dogs nor guns, but I saw waiters running down to the beach serving very fancy fruity drinks to half naked sunbathers. Gorgeous young people were riding their bikes along the beach path and sunning themselves on the white beach chairs. Miami beat booms in the background. Wow! Makes beaches in Rhode Island look pretty boring. Not to mention the beaches on the Red Sea. Developers world wide look at Miami to see what the world wants.

Welcome Centers

We always stop at the welcome centers. You can get free maps, hotel and restaurant coupons, plus it is fun and interesting to see how the different states portray themselves. Usually they try to deliver what the visitors expect. Often they can be very creative. Ray Charles music will somehow play in your head as you walk by Georgia's welcome sign.
Florida has without doubt the busiest welcome center we have ever visited. So many people waiting in line for hotel coupons. Lots of helpful staff plus free orange juice.
I just realized that Rhode Island doesn't have a welcome center. Hmm.

Grits

Grits is a very southern food. I never would have had them except for tasting them at the New England Barbecue Society 2007 Christmas party. Creamy delicious grits go great with beef short ribs and lots of other dishes, including shrimp and fish! On our way through Georgia and Florida I have been ordering grits every chance I get.
If you want your grits with shrimp at its best, go to Dixie Crossroads in Titusville, Florida. This is a very popular seafood restaurant and Florida is a big shrimping state so get the shrimp. Their shrimp tastes ultra-fresh. I got grits for a side. This meal was fantastic. The creamy grits at McCormick's on Jekyll Island, are also very good. McCormick's which is located at a golf course, is open for breakfast and lunch.
I have made grits myself using Emeril's recipe. Of course they were good. Does Emeril ever make anything which is not super good?

White-Cheddar Grits
Ingredients
2 1/2 cups milk
1/2 cup quick-cooking white grits
2 tbsp heavy cream
1/2 cup grated white Cheddar Cheese

Directions
1. Bring the milk, seasoned with salt, to boil in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Add the remaining butter. While stirring, slowly add the grits, breaking up any lumps.
2. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the grits are tender and slightly thick, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the heavy cream and 1/4 cup of the cheese, stirring until the cheese is completely melted. Season with salt/pepper.
Source: Emeril LaGasse http://www.wchstv.com/gmarecipes/shortribbourbonstew.shtml

Georgia's Jekyll Island

Yesterday following an early bbq lunch we were roaring down the highway towards Florida and I spotted signs for Jekyll Island. Yes, Bruce knew this Georgia gem so we promptly exited and found a nice efficiency room at the The Beachview Club. I can not say enough good about this idyllic get-away island. And it turns out that they escape hurricanes which avert them and continue on to Mississippi and to New Orleans. Wow! I must say I am very impressed. Kudos to Georgia.

Savannah

We arrived in Savannah yesterday afternoon. What a nice city to visit. Especially when it is warm and Boston is getting more snow. We walked along the river front and their famous River Street. Savannah has much historical significance. I paid homage at the General Nathaniel Greene's monument. Although born in Rhode Island, General Greene retired near Savannah where he is among their favorite sons.
There is also an interesting monument to Savannah's Waving Girl, Florence Martus who became famous because she greeted ships going in and out of Savannah by waving a white handkerchief. See more.
Food in Savannah is really good. We always having a hard time choosing where to eat. This time we opted for surprisingly small hole-in-the-wall Wiley's BBQ, a ten-minute drive from downtown. This place is worth the two-day trip. They serve competition-quality ribs, pulled pork and brisket. We have never had anything so good in a restaurant! Looks like we will be back in Savannah on the way back.
Off to see more of Savannah and on to Florida where it is really warm.

Kategorically Krazee

At 5:30 Bruce was waking me up. I have not yet finished processing the photos from our last trip and Bruce wants to escape the cold, so he is dragging me off to Florida. I pack my photo gear and a bathing suit and we empty the fridge into a cooler and an hour later we are in the car heading south.

Back to Boston or Sleeping In at 2:30 AM

It's 2:30 AM and I slept in because back in Jordan it is now 9:30 in the morning. After a 13 hour flight we arrived at Logan Airport yesterday morning. It is always fun being back to tv and road signs in English and family and friends. Thankfully beautiful sunny weather greeted us. Lots of residual snow of course and more on the way, but we are happy to be home.

Update April 4
Our Middle East trip is just a memory now. It has been over a month since we returned. I have decided that my favorite part of the trip was Jordan. Since I returned I find myself reading and seeing everything I can find about this beautiful country. I would definitely like to go back.
To learn more about Jordan I suggest the books and any writings by Arab-American author Diana Abu-Jaber, books about the discovery of Petra, and also Leap of Faith by Queen Noor. Good websites about Jordan include Ruth Caswell's Jordan Jubilee http://www.jordanjubilee.com/ Ruth, originally from Wales, divides her time now between Paris and Jordan. Her site offers a lot about the history, the people and the practicalities of Jordan. I find it helpful to read Amman's English-language newspaper The Jordan Times which, although presents the government slant, gives the latest news about what is happening in Jordan.
To get a sense of what Jordan is like, watch the video Land of Inspiration. which is Jordan in 5-minutes: the treasures, desert, food, excitement, traffic of Amman, and the wonderful welcoming people.

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=785187475977

A final word about cameras. I am absolutely 100% satisfied with my purchase of the Canon PS95. What a fantastic little camera! With total ease, this small pocket camera took beautiful shots all on automatic. Read the top reviews on Amazon.com. I recommend ignoring the negative reviews regarding video. For me the S95 videos were fine and the stills are outstanding.

Keeping Track of the Borders

Our last 2 days were spent in Jordan's Eastern Desert where we visited Azraq Nature Reserve for birds and later saw some of desert ksars.
We also saw many trucks lined up waiting for customs clearance. This desolate are of Jordan borders Saudi Arabia and Iraq. There are very few signs in English, so it is wise to know where you are. I don't think it would be a good idea to wander across any of the borders.

Jerash

Visited the extensive Roman ruins of Jerash. Wow! Unfortunately, because of rain, the reenactment of chariot races with Roman centurians was canceled. The hippodrome was too muddy for the horses. The bag pipe players did perform. I liked their version of Yankee Doodle natürlich.

Madaba - Worth the Trip

Madaba is a delightful city to visit. It has a great hotel, the Mariam, plus the best sweet shops anywhere in the world.
An example of what is for sale at "Abu-Jaber Sweet" on Al Yrrmuk Street in Madaba, Jordan. Then you can see the mosaics then go on to see Jerash and the spectacular Petra. Worth the trip.

5 Cars

"I just hope we keep seeing signs for Jerash". Bruce definitely did not want to get off course. We left Amman in pouring rain for the Roman ruins of Jerash in our 5th rental car. Our 4th car, picked up at the airport in Amman two days ago, had steering problems which were getting worse, so Bruce drove through many hairpin curves from the Crusader fort, Karak, back to Amman, into the city to swap for another car. Five cars for two countries: one car for Israel and 4 for Jordan.

We picked up our first car when we first arrived a little over 3 weeks ago. The hatchback trunk of the crappy rather dilapidated mini was too small to hold our 2 carry-on travel bags. On the way to the hotel I opened the glove compartment and it was broken so it would not close again. We were tired, it was dark, so we decided to upgrade come morning. Upgrading was not possible at the airport which meant a detour to Amman. So, a rerun on paperwork, car checking, no refund for extra gas we had put in, but we were finally, about 6 hours late, off to Petra in car 2, a Chevrolet which lasted through the close to a week.

Car 3, a really nice, new mini, with the model name Fun (pictured right), worked fine for 2 weeks all around Israel. The only glitch was at the airport dropoff they tried to charge for dents which were there when we got it. The old repair work was obvious, but the Budget manager insisted on charging because the damage was “not noted on the pickup sheet”. Grr. We picked it at night and it is really hard to see. Finally, someone found the report on a previous record.

Car 5, a twin of car 4 but with no steering problems, carried us to the comfortable Olive Branch Resort Hotel where we can relax happily in a heated room. Again about 7 hours late, but with the wind and the rain, it would have been better to just hole up until tomorrow when the weather will be better. It is still raining and the winds are howling.

Moral of the story is: when you rent cars in the Middle East, check them out really well with a flashlight if it is dark. And read the fine print. In Arabic. In Hebrew too.

Windy Karak

It was hard to sleep in ground level room in the Karak Rest House. The wind whistled and howled fiercely all night long. It was so strong, it actually blew our window open. But convenience was the best so far. We parked right outside the front door of the hotel. Dinner was down the hall from our room and Karak, perhaps the best preserved Crusader fort anywhere, was just a few steps across the street from the hotel. Dressed in all our warm gear we visited the fort all the while fighting the wind. Those crusaders were a hardy and brave group.

They All Have Cell Phones

I don't have one, but everyone has a cell phone. Grown-ups, teens, and little kids. My friend Dianne was the only person I knew who did not have one and now she has a cell phone. One thing learned on this trip is that everyone has a cell phone. I thought such devices were forbidden for Hasidic Jews, but in Israel, they have cell phones. (I did not see any in use during Shabat.) Veiled women have cell phones too. The priests and the Franciscan friars all have them. And amazing, but the Bedouin tribesman and women have cell phones too. They sit around boiling up water for tea over a wood fire chatting on their cell phones.
QUESTION If Bedouins live in tents, where are they recharging their cell phones?

Fraternizing with the Franciscans

"You find the Franciscans in the kitchen, the Dominicans in the library, and the Jesuits in the pub." is how Brother Anthony OFM, explains the differences between the 3 major orders of friars. Brother Anthony is originally from New Jersey (Exit 5 ;-) He has been serving for the last 3 years in a church near Jerusalem, but is now filling in at Mount Nebo for the Franciscan assigned there who is on home leave in Australia.
We not only learned about Moses and Mount Nebo, which is where Moses saw the Promised Land, but also a great deal about the Franciscans and vocations in general.
We also found out much more about the Milk Grotto and Brother Lawrence (pictured right), whom we met when we went to Bethlehem. There is a lot written about the miracles at the Milk Grotto.
We chatted with Brother Anthony for at least an hour. Such fun meeting Franciscans who are Americans. Before this trip I had never met a Franciscan who was not Italian.

Quiet Night in Jordan

We spent the day in Jaffa looking at the artists' quarter and the fishing boats, then after a short flight from Tel-Aviv to Amman we are back at Mariam Hotel in Madaba. The Mariam is such a nice place with very good food, especially the hummus. The story of Al Twal family, Christian Bedouins, who run the Mariam is fascinating. This is Jordan!
A real plus in Jordan is that hotels and food are about 40% cheaper. Some of the hotel staff are Egyptian. When we arrived here on Jan 29, our first day of the trip, everyone was glued to the large screen TV watching the violent unrest in Cairo unfold. Now all is calm and an Arabic subtitled American movie is playing. In the Lobby, there is a sign congratulating the Egyptians on their new found freedom and democracy.

Goodbye Israel, Hello Again Jordan

Today is our last day in Israel. After breakfast this morning we pick up our car which we left in a parking lot during the entire time we've been in Jerusalem. After a trip to Jaffa, we will fly back to Amman. Today is Friday, the Muslim day of prayer so there will probably be demonstrations. We will therefore not go to Amman, but will return to Madaba where there are no demonstrations as far as I know. King Abdullah is trying to placate the demonstrators. The vendors in the Amman are unhappy because they are losing so much business. (See article from The Jordan Times "Downtown merchants protest demonstrations".

After our trip to Bethlehem we walked around Jerusalem. We went to the Zion Wall and more churches and also talked to a lot of people. We stumbled upon the Latin Patriarchate. I was unsure of exactly what this was. The Roman Catholic priest told me it was the Patriarchate and also the Cathedral. Pretty soon we were sharing stories. He was born in Palestine during the British Mandate and had served at the Patriarchate for many years. He had welcomed and dined with Mother Theresa and also the last popes who all had made visits to the Holyland. It was fun seeing all the plaques on the wall. He gave us a tour of the Cathedral, started in 1862 and finished in 1872, about the same time as Saint Mary's Church in Newport. We also talked with Armenians. And an Australian traveler from Brisbane who works in Bristol, England. So many people with so many stories, so many viewpoints.
After leaving prayers at many churches and on paper notes tucked into the Western Wall, it is time to fly to Jordan for our final 4 days. I am really happy I came to Israel and want to come back. And yes, I think everyone should come here. We leave praying for peace in Jerusalem and everywhere else.

What Not To Do On Church Property

I have a theory which is that you know what is happening in a place when you read the signs. If a sign says no dogs, that means this is the place where everyone lets their dog romp. Sometimes reading signs can be scary. The sign right was posted at the entrance of one of the churches in Jerusalem.

Praying in Palestine

Jesus Christ was born in Palestine. The manger site in Bethlehem is still in Palestine, Territory, that is. So going there involves crossing a checkpoint, both ways. Given the touchy circumstances, it is not too much of a hassle. We got a bus from the Jaffa Gate right near our hotel which dropped us off in Bethlehem a short walk to the Church of the Nativity. I tried to imagine how it must be there on Christmas Eve because there were a lot of pilgrims/tourists and Manger Square and the church are not very large. How does the area accommodate everyone during its most popular season. Again it is moving to witness of the devotees.
Nearby is the Church of the Milk Grotto where a drop of Mary's milk fell on a rock which turned white, is administered by the Franciscans. The priest on duty today was an American Franciscan who told us that, like Lourdes and Fatima, this church is the scene of many miracles, especially cures for fatal illness and infertility. He knew of couples who finally after years of infertility conceived a child after visiting the church. I wrote down my prayers for my family and friends. Have no fear. I omitted all prayers for fertility.
Note that in a chapel below the church there is always a nun in constant adoration.
Although there were some rather persistent hawkers, the Palestinians were very nice. We listened with interest to their stories. More on this later.

Breakfast with the Dome

The balcony of our new hotel features a view of the Rock of the Dome (quite a contrast from our fast night's hotel*) so here we sit sipping on tea and Nescafe, munching on lemon sesame seed cookies while gazing upon the most famous golden dome in the world. The gold on the Rock of the Dome was donated by the late King Hussein of Jordan who sold a house in London to get the 8 million dollars. No wonder King Hussein is loved and respected so much in Jordan and elsewhere.

* Last night's ghastly hotel had a view of a garbage heap and cost more $$ mind you.

Finding the Holy Up

QUESTION Why is everything in Jerusalem up? Today we walked and walked and it was always up. We never went down except at the church on the site of the birth of the Virgin. Every church is up. The Wall is up. I look down on the Dome of the Rock from our hotel room, but when I walk there, it is up. The Mount of Olives is ridiculously up. Jesus and the Apostles were very fit, I assure you.
However, I did find today that Jerusalem is absolutely filled with holy. Jerusalem has, I swear, more churches than Rome and it seems an equal amount of synagogues and mosques. It would be impossible to see all of them.
We encounter so many pilgrims and religious of all faiths. Many are profoundly moved at the sites where Jesus preached and died. There is always a long line at the Western Wall. The young boys right are being led by their teacher to the Wall. We have not yet properly circled the Muslim holy place of pilgrimage, the Dome of the Rock because hours are limited. When we do, I expect to witness the same reverence and know that I will be tired walking up.

Will the Real Israeli Please Stand Up!

I am having a hard time finding a typical Israeli. After some searching in the Armenian quarter I finally found an Armenian Israeli and yes he knew about Watertown and he has relatives there.
Israel is so many things:
American In so many ways, Israel reminds me of the USA. The prices, the amount of choice, the diversity and the tolerance and the intolerance. You can really do your own thing here. You don't have to worry too much about fitting in. I have learned so much by talking to the people I meet here, fellow tourists and the workers who are either Israeli or foreigners. There are workers here from all over the world, including Africa, Asia and Brazil. Like America, Israel offers citizenship to people who come here: "Israel's Nationality Law relates to anyone wishing to settle in Israel, as well as those already residing or born there, regardless of race, religion, creed, sex or political beliefs." And one could write a book on the divisions among the Israeli Jews. I am sure many books have been written and I have to read one when I get home in order to begin to understand all I see and hear in Israel. One thing I think they have in common is speaking their mind. No Minnesota nice here. An Israeli is more than happy to tell you what he thinks. I like that.
Russian An Israeli joke: "What, you've been living in Israel for 6 years and you don't speak Russian?" People say that Israel is now 50% Russian and you hear and see the evidence if you are here, lots of people speaking Russian and lots of signs in Russian. The Russians for the most part seem to speak little or no English.
Armed Especially in Jerusalem. My first night in Jerusalem I saw from my window 2 soldiers search a young man who was carrying a plastic bag at 2:30 in the morning. They let him weave on his way. I think it was pretty obvious that anything in that plastic bag would have been alcohol.
Multi-Cultural We have talked with more interesting guest / resident workers and Israelis. The man with the pizzeria near our hotel is from Ecuador. He has lived in Israel for 15 years. His pizza was pretty good, not Rome's Gioa Mia nor the North End's Pizza Regina, but quite tasty with a crisp crust. Sophia, from London, works at our hotel Hamishiri, and she is veiled. Born Catholic, she converted to Islam and married a Palestinian from Jerusalem. She is the only woman in the family who does not live with the mother-in-law and who works outside the home. She does all the hotel email and fills in at the desk. The only person at the hotel who could fix our tv and heater was a teenager who has gone to school in a Chicago suburb. He's going back next year for senior year. In Eilat, the internet tech was Brazilian from Sao Paolo who's living with his Ukrainian girlfriend. Of course he suffers from saudade, the uniquely Brazilian intense longing for home.

Looking for the Holy

So far I am having a hard time finding the holy here. Our first night in Jerusalem I saw from the window 2 soldiers search a man who was carrying a plastic bag at 2:30 in the morning. They let him weave on his way. I think anything in that plastic bag was alcohol. A lone Hasidic man walked by. Meanwhile, tractors and street cleaning machines were circling about. Not how one would imagine the Holy City.
This morning I sat on our decrepit balcony and looked up at the covered over Damascus Gate (I guess they are doing some construction work) and observed taxi drivers taking breakfasts using the low cement barriers as tables, a man building a fire in an empty palm tree circular space, and a Hasidic coming from the direction to the Wall. Buses like "Nazarene Express" fly by, a white-bearded Hasidic man moves slowly because he is reading a book. Arabs in kettifehs pass by. To me the square needs a good washing.

Jerusalem

We arrived in Jerusalem about 3 PM. Quite a change after the quietness of Galilee and Eilat on the Red Sea. My first impression is that Jerusalem is a small but gritty town. Narrow streets, lots of traffic including tractors that can navigate up the steps of the via Dolorosa to deliver goods and haul out garbage. Young soldiers sometimes in groups of 5-7 all armed to the hilt hang out on the streets/ There are also a fair amount of police. Dome of the Rock is guarded by another armed contingent. When you walk down the street you will pass by Hasidic Jews, veiled women, Franciscan friars, and fellow tourists, all in a rush to get somewhere.

We immediately went to the Western Wall where I left prayer requests for the health and good fortune of our family and friends. The Dome of the Rock mosque was shut off so we will go back tomorrow when they allow people to go near it. Old City Jerusalem closes up around 7 PM so we went and saw the exterior of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre which marks Calvary. The sacred sites to 3 religions are all very close together. After changing to a presentable hotel tomorrow, we will see as much as we can.

Eilat on the Red Sea

There are 4 borders which are very close together on the Red Sea: Djedda, Saudi Arabia, Aqaba, Jordan, Eilat, Israel and Taba, Egypt. We took a short drive to Eilat's luxury hotel area. Bruce did a short video which shows the beachfront and points out the 4 borders. Just a short distance away is the Jordanian flag marking their border. Both Eilat and Aqaba have quite a bit of industry located directly on the sea and a lot of shipping. Both countries receive imported cars into their Red Sea ports.

Traveling in Turbulent Times

Mubarak finally stepped down on Friday. I hope the Egyptians really want freedom above economic gain. If they were struggling to make ends meet a few months ago, they will be struggling more now. Tourism is one of Egypt's major sources of income and this source is gone now and will recover slowly only if Egypt does not now descend into chaos. Every chance I have I am reading on-line newspapers. Israel has been channeling stranded tourists from Egypt back to their home countries. Jordan too.
We are now in Eilat, Israel which right next to Aqaba in Jordan where we a little over a week ago. With Bruce's birding binoculars we can actually see the hotel where we stayed in Aqaba. That is how close these two cities are on the Red Sea.
Eilat is a very much developed resort so it has the nicest hotels complete with pools, internet, and even free telephone calls to USA. We are at seaside hotel, called Orchid Reef Hotel Eilat. Yet another huge Israeli breakfast! (see photo right)
Although Eilat has the best creature comforts, Aqaba has the best reef for snorkeling and diving. It also has the best hummus. Not to say that Israelis do not make good hummus. They do and so do the Armenians, but no one will ever top the Jordanians at making hummus! Wait and see, that is if I can duplicate it.

Dead Sea and Masada

This is the second time I have come to the Dead Sea. The first time was in Jordan. In 1973, we drove in our van from Amman with a Palestinian refuge. We all went in and floated. Our Palestinian friend watched from the shore. I found it an unpleasant experience. The salt stings. But is is fun standing around watching people swim in it. That's what we did this time.

Why the Israelis Win Military Battles
Next to the Dead Sea is the Masada, the desert mesa fortress where in the year 70 AD the Jewish rebels committed suicide rather than surrender to the Romans. A mandatory field trip to the Masada by every Israeli student is part of the curriculum.
People think that the Israelis win battles because of luck, American help, the Masada "they'll never take us alive" spirit, or God knows how many other reasons. All of these reasons may play a part, but I know the real reason why they win. It is the diet! We have been visiting kibbutzes, many of which are now open for travelers with hostels and restaurants. I have been noticing all the good food. At the Masada Hostel we took the dinner. I have never seen so much varied wholesome food in one place. The buffet offered about 40+ choices of meats, fish, vegetables, salads, fruits, juices and good desserts. So here you have a country whose youth are eating such meals - forget about micro-wave pizza and coca cola. After they finish one of these fortifying meals, some Israeli Defence Force units are sworn in at the top of the Masada. I imagine they run up the steep Snake Path. If I were an enemy of Israel, I think I would lie low.

Masada My Way
Take the cable car (I climbed in Petra, so enough already) and wear trekking boots. Lots of rocks up there. Go as early as possible and miss the heat and the crowds. We had the whole Masada to ourselves.

Who's Afraid of Lions?

Who's Afraid of Lions?
I am. I am definitely afraid of the lions and a lot of other things. When Bruce was in Africa he was in trouble with the guides for taking sunset bird walks. Guides risk disapproval from their employers when any of their charges are taken down by lions. So of course Bruce at the Dead Sea was looking for ways to find the birds of the Dead Sea even if it meant approaching the Palestinian Territory border. I wanted to stay as far away as possible from any borders. Luckily, we found a public beach to get next to the Dead Sea. No birds. Too salty I think. Regarding birding, Bruce has spotted 54 birds so far, including Tristram's Grackle pictured right.

Egypt and Mubarak

Mubarak didn't step down last night but we missed it. We were too tired to stay up watching it on the TV in the lobby. We have consistently been meeting fellow travelers who were stuck in the airport in Cairo. They all have stories of running out of food and water and they also say that the Egyptians were so good to them. Last night we met a young American from Michigan who never made it to the Pyramids. She was stuck in the airport at the beginning of the their trip. Supplies were running low. It was hard for everyone but especially for the airport employees who just worked endlessly and had no flight out possibility. When her flight finally came through, she felt sorry leaving them there without food and water.
One question I do not ask Israelis is what they think of the present situation. I would make an awful news reporter, because I am reluctant to ask questions which could make someone feel uncomfortable. I notice soldiers walking in the streets carrying automatic weapons. Army camps in the desolate Golan heights were very active, airplanes of course seem to be up there patrolling the border areas and we have seen a number of busloads of soldiers off to God knows where. However, this may be the norm here. I need to pick another copy of Jerusalem Post (Eng ed) In any event I sure hope peace comes soon to this whole area.

Brush Up on Your Hebrew

People say you don't need Hebrew to travel in Israel, but it would be handy. Sure every Israeli you meet in the USA or on the road speaks English very well, but in Israel many residents speak little or no English. There are monuments and road signs in Hebrew only, or in Hebrew and Arabic. You miss out on the opportunity to chat with many people you meet. However, as a bare minimum pleasanteries, like Shalom and Todah, will elicit smiles from the Israelis who seem to appreciate visitors' attempts to speak Hebrew. They undoubtedly respect anyone who is willing to take on a language that reads backwards and assigns gender to its verbs.

You Won't Get Skinny Here

We went back again to our favorite Kosher eatery, Cusina, in downtown Tiberias, not too far from the candy shop.
This is only the accompaniments! We had the schnitzel and grilled kebabs again.
This morning Bruce was swimming in a hot spring next to the Sea of Galilee. It was super warm until he swam away a bit. Then it suddenly turned cold.

Eating Kosher in Israel

Tiberias on the Galilee Sea is a Jewish city, in contrast to Nazareth which is Arab (Muslim) and Christian (Arab), but in both cities dinner seems to be the same as it would be in East Watertown: kebab, schnitzel, salads, pickles and pita bread. The difference is that you will not be offered shellfish nor meat mixed with dairy in the Kosher restaurants of Tiberias. Your fellow diners will include Hasidic Jews. The man next to us (pictured with his wife right) got into a lively conversation with the men at another table. He was standing up calling out comments and the men were laughing. One of the few words I think I understood was "politi". Does "politi" mean politician?

Galilee - Beautiful and Tranquil, not so Golan

We just finished a hardy Middle Eastern breakfast of tomatoes, cucumbers, hummus, cheeses and much more, served on a balcony at the Peniel-by-Galilee overlooking Tiberius Lake, better known as the Sea of Galilee. The day was sunny and bright and we soon left for the Golan Heights.
Golan Heights
Rocky, with cow pastures, bullet-pocked old abandoned buildings, army camps, goats, fruit farms and vineyards, the Golan Heights seemed cold and desolate. However, parts of it reminded me of California in the land of the happy cows. Instead of oil wells in the pastures there was the occasional broken tank from the 1948 war. In the distance were snow-covered mountains. The old road to Syria is blocked with large boulders.

Tiberius - More Churches

Tiberius on Sea of Galilee includes churches marking the house of Peter, the Sermon on the Mount, and the locations where Jesus multiplied five loaves and two fishes and where He handed the keys over to Saint Peter.
The Sea of Galilee has many birds so Bruce did some birding. Along the shoreline hyraxes sit on the rocks. They scamper and run away when I get too close in an attempt to photograph.
We had dinner at Tanoreen.

Nazareth: Churches, Churches, Churches

Nazareth is filled with churches all commemorating an event in the life of Jesus. Sometimes there is more than one church in separate locations to mark an event because different groups of Christians recognize a different location.
We stayed in the Fazi Azar Inn, a joint venture between Israeli Jews and Israeli Arab Christians to revitalize the old city center of Nazareth.

Here we met more volunteers.


More about Fazi Azar In at their site www.fauziazarinn.com/

Some Thoughts on Israel

GREEN Israel is green! In more ways than one. There are lots plastic bottle collection receptacles conveniently, but discreetly, placed in cities such as Tel Aviv. The scenery is green and productive Bread and Circus quality fresh fruits and vegetables abounds in all neighborhoods. Israel is also green in that it is prosperous and invests in the infrastructure.

ARAB - and everything else. Israel is, surprisingly for me at least, Arab. I expected Israel to be Jewish. There are over one million Arab Israelis who keep their own language and culture and enjoy a high standard of living for this part of the world. There are Arab towns, like Nazareth, where you can get authentic hummus, hear the iman 5 times daily, and see veiled women. They welcome us "to Israel". And yes, pictured right is a mosque with an Israeli flag on top. I have a great deal to learn about the Middle East. So, Israel is Jewish and Arab, but it is actually everything, so many hostels and churches / places of worship. Such diversity in population. In the past 2 days we have talked to American Jewish immigrants, sabras, volunteers from all over the world, missionaries. We hear every language and public places have translations in many languages. What a potpourri. Sometimes I think I am in NYC.

QUESTION If women can wear veils in Israel, what's with France where it is illegal?

EDUCATION Be forewarned if you come to tour Israel, it is mandatory that you learn about what you are seeing. Included in the price of a ticket will be some direction before you set off. Not speaking Hebrew will be no excuse. If there is no English guide one of the guides will apologize that she is a Hebrew guide, but she will do the best she can for you in English. Better pay attention because you will not get away until you understand well the history, the architecture, the time-line, the geography, and expect some spot quizzes. And you will be expected to correct for her any mistakes she makes in English. Bruce and I both know very well about Caesera, ancient port, from Phoenician era through King Herod, Romans, Crusaders, and more, all the way up to the present day.

Tonight we are in Nazareth where we just had, at the Annai Restaurant, a wonderful meal of chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce w/ fresh thyme. Absolutely 1st Class.

Jordanian Hummus

We just finished an Israeli breakfast which is heavier than breakfasts in Jordan. Salads had more cream and mayonnaise and cakes were sweet.

I missed the Jordanian hummus. Jordanians are the master chef of making hummus. No garlic, creamy and light and presented so beautifully - always with extra chick peas on the side and garnished lots of olive oil and parsley. The earthenware serving dish really dresses it up. Maybe this what attracted people like Queen Noor and Lawrence of Arabia to Jordan!

I will be making this for sure as soon as I come home.

Jacuzzis in your room

I am trying to figure out why our very modest room has a shower and a jacuzzi. Well, a warm jacuzzi soothes the body. Esp. if you've been hiking for hours. It's been raining too hard to venture outdoors yet but the weather is warm. The news is filled with stories of snow in New E.ngland

TV in Tel Aviv

We arrived in TelAviv to find higher prices, HUMUNGOUS servings of food, and TV in many languages, including English. This morning we were awakened by the Iman in Wadi Musa, Jordan, and now nobody is wearing a veil! A bit of culture shock but it seems that the Israelis are as nice to us as were the Jordanians except they serve us too much too much to eat! Bruce ordered a simple mushroom burger and it came on a long rectangular platter, heaped with salad and fries. Enough already. My chicken schnitzel was just a big. And there was a free dessert! I swear I took in more calories tonight than I do in a week.

Tomorrow it is off to Haifa and hopefully a bit of rest time.

More about Petra

Petra is listed among the 7 New Wonders of the World. Built by the Nabateans between the 3rd and 1st centuries before Christ, Petra was rediscovered by Hohann Burckhardt in 1812, Petra is an extensive area of ancient city and tombs. We took hundreds of photographs here, One of Bruce's favorites id the white donkey resting near a tomb entrance. My luggage is weighted down with equipment I used only for Petra: sturdy trekking boots, heavy rain coat, sun tan lotion, sun hat. To safely and comfortably climb to the famous Monastery, in my opinion, you need trekking boots, although good sneakers will suffice. You must be prepared for sun, cold, rain and high winds, all within a few hours. The weather can change very dramatically and fast in Petra. You also may need to wade through some water during which sneakers can get wet. So, I was very happy I had my mountain trekking boots.

Mosaics then Israel

We have stopped by to get a reservation at the Mariam Hotel in Madaba for when we return from Israel. They tell us that the Islamists are now demonstrating in Amman but all is calm. The King is negotiating with the protesters and the people feel confident that Jordan will remain peaceful.

We are now off to see mosaics before we go to airport. If there is still trouble in Jordan Feb 18, we will not return here but will go home from Israel.

Petra is Awsome

No Egypt. All's well in Jordan exc very little internet. Petra is AWESOME.
Jordanian hummus and baba ganoush are also the best I have ever eaten.

We visited the Lawrence of Arabia area of Wadi Rum. Very beautiful. I want to see the movie again when we get home.

We also visited Aqaba which was very warm. The Jordanians are all very warm and always friendly. We like it very much here.

More later. Israel tomorrow.

Off to Aqaba

Rain is over and business of cancels / reschedules is over. Amman has a bit of sun today. We are off to Aqaba in search of warmth.

Imam gets up early

We were awakenedfor prayer early this morning. I remembered my first morning in Tunisia 45 years ago. Jeez, where did the time go?

The weather is warm with gentle rain. Much to see.

Jordan :-)

Late planes, but we are here in Amman, actually in a very nice hotel in Madaba, which is outside of Amman. People are very helpful and friendly. No Egypt. Planes are not flying in there. There are Egyptians who work here. I feel sorry that they have to watch all the trouble going on in their country.

Goodbye Snow

We are leaving in a couple of hours. I am not sure yet about Egypt. I still haven't packed but I will right now. .

Egypt is still a question mark. We will see what we do once we are in Amman where we go first. Right now the Egyptian government has shut down cell phone and internet in Egypt to try to quell the protests. Mubarak is really stupid. He does not realize that NOTHING will drive today's youth to violence faster than taking away their electronic toys. He'll find out. He should have had my job then he would know better. If he does not wise up fast those angry technophiles will be storming his quarters with a vengeance and they will throttle him plenty until he returns Facebook access to them.

Snow Mounds Too High for Shoveling

After last night's addition, I can not throw the snow high enough. The mounds are much taller than I am. I have no idea how we will get to the airport tomorrow. We just may use public transportation. That is a small problem compared to the situation of people who are trapped under collapsed roofs.

Meanwhile I still have to pack.

Snow and Snafus

Bruce is working on getting the electricity fixed. It failed this morning. If the electricity is not on pretty soon I will be leaving with no laundry done ;-) Meanwhile everyone here is waiting on yet more snow which will arrive this afternoon. Weathermen are talking about as much as 10 inches. My question is where are we going to put it? Maybe they should just shut this city down for a couple of weeks. Otherwise, they will have to start shipping snow out to the suburbs.

It may be good if we are snowed in. Egyptian demonstrators are still taking to the streets despite a government prohibition against all protest. The demonstrators are demanding that President Mubarak step down. This is not likely to happen.

Electricity is fixed! Bravo.