National Archives and National Gallery

Washington DC never fails to be wonderful. Excellent food, museums, my favorite zoo, plus the National Archives where we started the day by examining and copying original records of Bruce's ancestor who fought in the Civil War.

We spent the rest of the day in our National Gallery. Among the exhibitions is "The Dying Gaul" on loan from the Capitoline Museums in Rome.  See more at their site.  See good photographs of this masterpiece.

I was happy to see "Second Beach, Newport" which reminds me that summer will soon be here. See more about this picture.

Tomorrow we will be back home - a day early - because of the snow. Tonight we will go to our favorite DC area restaurant, Astor, for another Mediterranean feast complete with rice pudding. A good ending to a very nice trip.

"Second Beach, Newport" in the National Gallery

Planes and Rockets and Heroes

Bruce is passionate about anything that flies like birds and planes so a visit to the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center was a priority. This companion facility to the National Air and Space Museum in Washington, DC, located at Dulles Airport, consists of enormous hangars filled with planes and rockets dating from the early days of air travel. See more at their web site.

P-40 Warhawk "Lope's Hope" with full Flying Tiger paint job

There are rockets too. And the Space Shuttle.

Tours by volunteers leave every half hour. I had a private tour led a retired Pan American mechanic. He looked a lot younger than he was because he had served in WW II, He had loved planes all his life. I learned a lot from.


We ended the day with a trip to Arlington Cemetery.

Arlington Cemetery

Changing of the Guard at the Unknown Soldier Grave

We finished the day with an excellent Mediterranean dinner. Food in DC is GOOD. It is a sunny day in Washington DC. and we are off to the National Archives.

Hurrah! Hurrah! We Won!

The highlight of today was seeing Yorktown where, on October 19, 1781, the Brits surrendered and the Revolutionary War was over. The story is a good one. See Wikipedia Siege of Yorktown.

Surrender of Lord Cornwallis at Yorktown

Yorktown Surrender Field Today

Afterwards we visited Williamsburg. Although most of the buildings are reproductions rather than originals, it was a great experience. Visiting Williamsburg is like going back to colonial times. No cars, no ads. You walk around and it is like being there. The best part though for me is discovering that Williamsburg has some fine gems of authentic colonial architecture such as the court house and the Capitol Building 1753-1779 where Patrick Henry railed against the Stamp Act. See more at Wikipedia Colonial Williamsburg.
Caution is in order regarding learning about the Revolution from movies or books. For a one-sided somewhat inaccurate version, see "The Patriot" For a more accurate view of what really happened, see "Rebels & Redcoats - How Britain Lost America". This  PBS documentary (2004) can borrowed from your local library (MLN) or seen for free on line at  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zx1IE66hqlk. 

Capitol Building

Williamsburg is also the home of the headquarters of the Sons of the Revolution so of course I snapped a photo of it along with my favorite son :-)

Don't Go to Danville on a Monday

Revolutionary War

We started the day at Guilford Courthouse where the Patriots outwitted the Brits. Hip Hip Hooray! We watched the movie and saw all the monuments in the park. I was especially interested in the very elaborate monument to our guy, Nathaniel Greene, who was born in Rhode Island. After the Revolutionary War he retired in Savannah where he died very young of heat stroke.

"Greene is as dangerous as Washington. I never feel secure when encamped in his neighborhood. He is vigilant, enterprising, and full of resources."
British General Charles Cornwallis

"It is with a pleasure which friendship only is susceptible of, I congratulate you on the glorious end you have put to hostilities in the Southern States; the honor and advantage of it, I hope, and trust, you will live long to enjoy."
Letter to Major General Nathanael Greene from George Washington

Civil War Site
Located at 721 Lee Street in Danville, Virginia is the Danville National Cemetery. Among the burials are Union soldiers who died at the infamous Confederate Danville Prison. We came here to find the grave of a very distant relative. He was there. I took photographs to send to one of his relatives in New Hampshire.
The caretaker gave us directions to his favorite BBQ restaurant. What a pleasant surprise. For very little money we had some of the best bbq of the trip at Checkered Pig. My ribs were fantastic. Bruce's pulled pork was good too. Don't ever go to Danville on Monday because Checkered Pig is closed!

Succulent Ribs at Checkered Pig

Per usual we are enjoying the beauty of rural south. Virginia is lovely with rolling fields, such as the one below with the sorghum crop.

Along Route 903 Hendricks Hill Road in Ebony, Virginia

We definitely felt a chill in the air by the time we arrived at the Quality Inn in Emporia.
 

Greensboro, North Carolina = Barbecue and Battlefields

It's Barbecue and Battlefields all through the South. We will leave Greensboro, North Carolina this morning to see Guilford Courthouse and then on to Emporia, Virginia where we will visit the Danville Miitary Cemetery. And we will seek out the good barbecue. It's all good. The sauces change ---- vinegar, then mustard ---- I wonder what would happen if I google mapped "bbq sauces".

Battlefields - Thank You Hill Billies!

The Revolutionary War was started by elite New Englanders, specifically Bostonians, but it was fought and won in the South. The equally elite Thomas Jefferson was a Virginian. General George Washington too, but the real heroes who can take the most credit for our indepence are not the elites, nor the French, but a group most of us do not know well. The southern hill billies were so enraged by the treachery of British General Tarleton who mercilessly slaughtered surrendering soldiers and by British threats to come after them. The Brits should have known better than take on the Over the Mountain Men of the Carolinas and Tennessee.

Battle of Kings Mountain

The Battle of Kings Mountain took place October 7, 1780, in rural South Carolina. It was a very decisive battle where the Patriot militia defeated the Loyalist militia commanded by British Major Patrick Ferguson. 

Battle of Kings Mountain

Battle of Cowpens

The Battle of Cowpens, a turning point in the Revolutionary War, took place on January 17, 1781.

On to victory at Yorktown!

Monument at Kings Mountain

More later.

Gaffney, South Carolina

Georgia may be the Peach State, but the largest peach is undoubtedly in South Carolina. We stayed in Gaffney SC because it is close to the location of a famous battlefield.

Water Tower in Gaffney, South Carolina
(See photographer Ken Thomas page)

Favorite American Heros in Atlanta

The city of Atlanta where to be to learn a lot about two great American heros.

We went to  Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historic Site. After seeing the exhibits and Dr. King's boyhood home, we attended service at the Ebenezer Baptist Church where he had served as pastor. The original church is no longer used and the congregation meets in a new larger church across the street at the King Center. They had a tribute to Nelson Mandela. Natosha Reid Rice delivered the sermon. The Men's Choir and visiting Bahamian group, Legends Marching Band, provided music. Needless to say it was good. And I must say that I have never been in any group which made everyone feel so welcome.

Mural outside Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historic Site

Martin Luther King was born in this house in 1929

At the Jimmy Carter Library and Museum  I enjoyed talking to the lady who sold tickets. She sees Jimmy often. She told us that he gives a great Christmas for all the employees. A dream job which she loves.

So much to see; so little time.

There is much more in Atlanta than I can every describe. I could have spent days and days there. Next time I want to see the Margaret Mitchell House and Museum.  For more about Atlanta, see Wikipedia Atlanta. and City of Atlanta's Visitor Page.  
By mid-afternoon we were back on the local roads savoring the gentle landscape of the American South.

On the road from Atlanta to South Carolina

Atlanta

After driving from Bradenton through cattle country we are back to Georgia. Yesterday we visited Andersonville and today we are ready to see the sights of Atlanta.

Along the highway in rural Georgia

Sunset on the Beach

Central Florida is still warm. So much fun being with friends. Especially watching the sunset on the beach.

No Snow in Naples - No Soul Either

There is no snow in Naples. It is warm and balmy. Naples is very different from Florida City and Miami. I have not heard anyone speaking Spanish here. It is very pristine and posh, but the food pretty bland. I definitely prefer the other coast. I want to hear Spanish and be served Enchiladas Suizas and salsa which is picante. I miss the Everglades with the alligators.

My Kind of Road

Florida Panther crossing near
the entrance to Everglades National Park

Nothing is more fun to me than being on a road which has watch out for panthers signs.

After 3 days in Key West. we are back to Everglades looking for all sorts of wildlife, especially the Panther. Although he is there, it is highly unlikely that I will ever see him. The Florida Panther is very endangered and quietly roams remote inaccessible areas of the Everglades. Unfortunately he is more often seen as road kill than alive.

We were successful at seeing lots of birds, alligators, the American Crocodile and the Manatee.

Laughing Gulls occupy one of the docks at Flamingo

At Alligator Alley

Quiet beauty abounds in the Everglades.

 

Roseate Spoonbill at Eco Pond

One of the Manatees at Flamingo

Policing in Key West

The last morning in Key West we rode our bikes over to the pier to watch the pelicans and the cruise boats disembark. We had a long chat with one of Key West's young police officers. He told us that their biggest problem was the homeless. They have a hard time controlling the many homeless who want to relocate in "Paradise". There is very little serious crime because there is no escape route. He was very happy with his job and had much praise for their chief.

Cruise Boats are always in Key West

The Grapefruit Man

We have always called him the "Grapefruit Man". Years ago when he (and we too) were much younger we witnessed his magic show at Mallory Square in Key West. It was extraordinary. We would go every night, but Bruce could never figure out how the Grapefruit Man got the oranges under the cups and the grapefruit !! under the hat. After having seen him numerous times in Key West we surprisingly found him in Harvard Square. He told us he had moved there and actually bought a house so planned on staying for a while. Then the Grapefruit Man disappeared. We never saw him again anywhere. So, we were surprised and happy to see his act twice here in Key West. We had a catch-up chat. He had returned to England, but is now again performing and living in Key West. Bruce still can not figure out how he does it. The oranges are still under the cups, but no more grapefruit. It's now a melon under the hat.

Gary "Gazzo" Osbourne with his magic wand and cups

The Grapefruit Man has a name and from the net I learned a lot about his interesting life. Gary "Gazzo" Osbourne's bio is on Wikipedia (See here) and of course there is a Gazzo's Facebook Page. Better still here a video I found on Youtube "Gazzo, Street Magic, Bath England" which shows him in action.

Key West is Beaches, Birds, and Bikes

Riding on bikes all around Key West we see so much. We discover miles of white sandy beaches. We find Ibises hanging out with the feral chickens. At the fishing piers we love watching the hungry pelicans being fed by the captains of the fishing boats.

 

One of the many beaches at Key West

Hungry juvenile pelicans patiently await their daily handouts.

White Ibis

My bike is surounded by ibises and a feral chicken.

Key West feral chicken

Why Do Houses in Key West Have Porches?

We know why houses in Key West have porches.

We hear constantly about all the snow in New England. Last night we experienced the Key West version. And it "snowed" a lot while we were out on the bikes pretty far from the hotel. I was afraid this torrential downpour would ruin my beloved camera even though it was snuggled in its case in the tough little green bag. In desperation we parked the bikes on the sidewalk and Bruce opened the front gate of  someone's beautiful house and we ran for cover on their front porch which we now shared with a gorgeous gray cat. Quietly, we waited, it seemed endlessly, for the rain to slow down. Life was going on behind the door. Finally the rain let up enough. Just as we were ready to leave a lady opened the door to fetch her cat. She was not a bit startled and did not mind at all. Maybe people who live in tropical Key West are adjusted to strangers taking shelter on their porches as they are adjusted to negotiating bicyclists on their roads and sidewalks. Dripping wet we returned to our room to change clothes before going to the nearby Peruvian restaurant. This morning the hotel pool is overflowing and it is sunny again.

Key West Is Hot

Key West is hot, humid, and honky-tonk. It's like Newport in the summertime. It's expensive too. People line the waterfront waiting for the sunset drinking lime-based cocktails in the outdoor bars. There are people swimming in the sea! Hard to believe that so much of the rest of the country is buried in snow and battling below-zero temps.

We'll be here for 3 nights riding rented bikes all around town. There are some decent restaurants. Had Chicken Marsala at Abbondanza  which was quite tasty.

Near Mallory Square in Key West

Chicken Marsala at Abbondanza in Key West

Key Lime Milk Shakes with the Alligators in the Everglades

We do the same thing every year. Bruce gets disgruntled with the cold so he piles everything, including me, into the car and starts driving south. It predictably gets warmer and warmer until somewhere in Georgia, long after we have run out of snow, we store the winter coats and heavy woolens remotely in the trunk. In mid-Florida hardy northerners can start wearing shorts and in Miami it's time for AC, sun block and mosquito repellent. South of Miami we get ourselves installed in the Quality Inn, eat some mediocre barbecue, and get a peaceful night's sleep with the AC on. The next morning we just can't wait to get to Robert Is Here for our Key Lime Milk Shake to take into the park. We will be taking our final sips while we watch the alligators. 

The story of Robert Moehling, the little kid who started Robert Is Here over 50 years ago is rather extraordinary. His father was a farmer from the Chicago area who migrated down to southern Florida in the 50's. It was a struggle and it still is to succeed. To learn more about 

Robert and the Homestead and Everglades area see Redland Riot Road Tour: Robert is Here and this in-depth interview "Robert Moehling - Oral History Transcript".

 

 First stop is Robert is Here  in Homestead, Florida 

at the entrance to the Everglades

Key Lime Milk Shakes at Robert is Here

White Heron checks out an Alligator

What happens to critters that are not fast ..

River of Grass

Great Blue Heron

Night Heron at Flamingo Marina

Sunny in Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge

It was Sunday so the traffic moved smoothly from the time we left the Quality Inn in Titusville all the way to the Quality Inn in Florida City. When we passed by Miami we were both nostalgic when we saw signs for Kendall which was where we visited Young in the late 80's.

The highlight of the day was a drive through Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge to see the birds, especially the magnificent Roseate Spoonbill which sits in the islands of brush in the marshes. Note the tiny pinkish speck in the middle of the island on the left in the photo.

Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge
Titusville, Florida

Roseate Spoonbill in Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge
Sunday, February 9, 2014

Finally it is very warm. Time for shorts and tank tops. The motels are all full and visitors are swimming in the outside pools. Ended the day with dinner at the very popular Sonny's BBQ. The pulled pork sandwich and slab of ribs were fine, but nothing can compare with Wiley's in Savannah. We will have to smoke our own when we go back home.

Rain in Florida, but you can still drive to the shrimp

Corn Fritters at Dixie Crossroads

It's been raining, but at least it is not snowing so we had no trouble driving to Dixie Crossroads in Titusville, Florida to feast on the fresh shrimp.
Dixie Crossroads is one of those wonderful eating places which always has a line jam-packed with locals of all ages. When your turn finally comes up, the hostess will seat you at a long table and bring you a menu and a complimentary dish of hot corn fritters which are sooo good you won't care about the calories. Here is the recipe for Dixie Crossroads Corn Fritters.  
Then it's time to order the shrimp. I always get the Royal Red, a local deep water species of shrimp which are extremely sweet. Then it was back to the Quality Inn to lull about and watch the Olympics.

Royal Red Shrimp

Goodbye Savannah

Savannah is simply charming. We spent 2 nights at the Inn at Ellis Square. We walked the along the waterfront, revisited all the lovely squares, and ate at Wiley's twice :-) My favorite square is Johnson Square which is the site of the Nathanael Greene Monument.  So now it is time to head further south where it is warmer still. Good luck Brett and Brennen in today's semi-finals. Wish we were there to root for you!

Savannah: Boats, Beauty, and Best BBQ

After spending the night at the very nice Quality Inn in Emporia, Virginia, we were on the road before 8:00 AM. We always stop at the very friendly welcome centers which push the high points of their states. North Carolina has soft chairs around a fire place where you can mull over their display of North Carolinian literature. All the selections were interesting. An example Blood and War at my Doorstep: North Carolina Civilians in the War between the States by Brenda Chambers McKean would undoubtedly pique our sympathies for the Confederates who suffered immeasurably during the Civil War.

I always love the Georgia Welcome Center which greets you with their sign "We're happy you have Georgia on your mind". We picked up a discount coupon for the luxurious Inn at Ellis Square in downtown Savannah.

We're back to Wiley's in Savannah eating the finest barbecue. Championship pulled pork, delicious sweet potato casserole and healthy green beans.

Wiley's Championship BBQ

An afternoon of walking on the river front watching the tugs and huge ships plus a walk through the many plazas, including of course the plaza in honor of General Nathaniel Greene who lived and died in Savannah after the Revolutionary War.